As most of you know golfing is a big hobby for Andrew. Last fall, he and his brother Chris submitted their application for tickets to the Open Championship Golf Tournament held every year in the UK. It’s a very rare lottery as people from around the world apply each year. Surprisingly, Andrew’s brother was chosen which led to them to planning a bucket list golf trip to Scotland. This once in a lifetime trip included four rounds of golf at some of the best courses in the world and sightseeing both on the west coast and east coast of Scotland. Read on Andrew provides a rundown of golf, the sights, great dining, our experience driving on the other side of the road, and some of the friendliest people you will every meet.
Traveling to Scotland
(First off, shout out to Golf International for setting up this once in a lifetime trip. They were very helpful in booking everything and answering all our questions over the last 8 months. A special shoutout to Liz for not only creating the travel package but for reserving our caddies, helping us with all of our last minute travel questions, and providing sightseeing and dining recommendations throughout our trip. Thanks to Bob for meeting us at the Edinburgh Airport and helping us navigate the shuttle and getting us set up at the car rental facility.)
Since Chris lives in Maryland, I decided to fly up to Baltimore so we could take the same flights to Scotland. With an overnight flight and a very long layover in Dublin, we arrived in Edinburgh, Scotland, late afternoon. After another 90 minute drive to the Old Loans Inn on the west coast, we finally arrived around 6:00 that night. That left time for dinner at the hotel and that was about it. Click here for a full review of the Old Loans Inn.
Driving and Our First Hotel in Scotland
While we knew driving in another country could pose a bit of a challenge we decided to rent a car. It’s good to try new things right? Shoutout to Arnold Clark Car Rental for the upgrade from a midsize car to a Mercedes crossover. We were thrown right into the driving gauntlet as we were faced with two roundabouts leaving the rental car facility and getting on the highway. We then encountered traffic driving through Glasgow so by the time we arrived at our hotel, we were already feeling a little more comfortable driving on the left side of the road with the steering wheel on the right. After the second day, we settled right in and were good to go the rest of the week. The hardest part was getting a good sense of where the left side of car was. (It may be a small miracle that we didn’t hit anything with the passenger side mirror.) We only hit one curb and the left wheels momentarily left the road once driving on a country road with a bus passing us going the other way. The car having navigation was a huge plus and would be mandatory if we were to do this again. And yes, on more than one occasion, we both walked up to the wrong car door (left to drive) when getting in.
Day 1: Exploring Troon and a Castle
We made no plans for our first day in Scotland so after a full Scottish Breakfast, we set out to see the local sights, beginning with the local town, Troon.
The Town of Troon, Scotland
Troon is a small waterfront town on the west coast of Scotland. The entire coastline of the town provides beaches but for those of us who are used to 90 degree weather in the summer, the low 60s and wind was not conducive for a visit to the beach. However, there were plenty of locals splashing in the water, including a few wind surfers. While it isn’t very big, there are plenty of shops and restaurants to peruse and we did just that. We want to call out Mode Menswear in Troon not just for their quality golf apparel but for the amazing conversation with the owner. He gave us some great advice for the rest of our trip including visiting Royal Troon Golf Club, which was next on our list to see.
Here is a quick story that explains how friendly Scots are. Chris and I were walking through town when an older woman came up to us and told us a story about how her local Pastor of 30 years just moved to the “Deep South” of the US to take care of a family member and that she was very sad. As that conversation ended, a gentleman came up to us, shared some small talk, followed by two jokes, then said bye and went about his day. We had so many pleasant conversations with random folks throughout our entire trip.
Royal Troon Golf Club, Scotland
In the history of the Open Championship, Royal Troon Golf Club has contributed quite a bit, especially just a few years ago when Phil Mickelson and Henrik Stenson battled it out for the title. The Open has been held here nine times and will host its tenth in 2024. Though we tried, we were unable to secure a tee time at Royal Troon but we were able to visit the pro shop. A few tips for visitors, we were allowed in the pro shop but nowhere else in the clubhouse and there didn’t seem to be a dress code as we walked in wearing jeans. The staff were very friendly and allowed us to walk around the outside of the clubhouse and take pictures, even walking up behind the 18th green. The prices in the shop were very reasonable and not nearly as expensive as we expected (this was a theme throughout our entire trip from the courses we played to the Open Championship gear at St. Andrew’s).
Dundonald Castle (Cost: £7/person)
We spotted the Dundonald Castle on our way into town the day before and made a mental note to check it out the next day. One of Scotland’s most unexplored and fascinating outdoor attractions, this heritage treasure was the historic home to Scots King Robert II, grandson of Robert the Bruce. Sitting atop a hill with views of Troon and other coastal towns, Dundonald Castle boasts historic links to the Stewart dynasty, the Wallace family, and the Cochranes, favourites of Charles II.
While there is no fee to walk up the hill and around the exterior of the castle, if guests want an hour long tour and see the inside of the castle, the cost is £7 per person. The cost for Seniors is £6, children 5-16 are £5 and kids under 5 are free. Being able to go inside the castle and the information gleaned from the tour was worth the £7.
In the small building at the base of the hill where guests check in, there is a small, one room museum showing the history of the land beginning well before the Dundonald Castle was built. There is also a small cafe serving various hot and cold drinks, toasties, pastries, and other small goodies. We both ordered hot chocolate and Chris ordered a scone, all of which was quite good.
Related to the Dundonald Castle is the Old Auchan’s House, located about a mile from the castle, and built using stones pilfered from what remained of the castle. Some of the structure is still standing today but is not nearly what it used to be.
Dinner: Old Loans Inn Restaurant
Since we had spent most of the day out and about, we decided to head back to the hotel for dinner at the Old Loans Inn Restaurant. (You can read more about this in our hotel review.)
Day 2: The Home of the First Open Championship
1st Round of Golf: Prestwick Golf Club
Our first round of golf was at Prestwick Golf Club, the original home of the Open Championship, played at Prestwick for the first 12 years, beginning in 1860. It remains a monument to the early days of golf, with fast running, bumpy fairways, deep bunkers, and many blind shots among the unpredictable winds. Prestwick Golf Club has a few quirky holes (including a blind par 3) and can be prone to some weird bounces on a few holes, especially around the greens, but we really liked this course and was the perfect choice for our first round in Scotland.
Following our round, we took time to walk through the clubhouse taking in all of the history that goes back over 150 years. We also decided to eat lunch in the upstairs dining room overlooking the golf course. We recommend taking the time at each of these courses to walk around and take everything in. We found out later in our trip that striking up conversations with folks that work at the courses is rewarded with some great hidden gems. Click here for a full review of Prestwick Golf Club.
Dinner: Lido Troon
Lido Troon was recommended by multiple folks so we decided to head back into Troon to get dinner. I would recommend making a reservation as the restaurant was completely full the night we went. However, they do have bar seating and we were able to snag a high top table.
The restaurant has recently been completely restyled and looking better than ever with all-new venue features, luxurious materials, and a state of the art pizza oven. When it comes to cooking, we’re all about simple, delicious dishes with a subtle Mediterranean influence, from our ever-popular chargrill, to our fresh pastas and wood-fired handmade pizzas. From coffee and cooled drinks to an Aperol Spritz or Ice Cold Peroni from the bar, Lido has something to satisfy.
Andrew ordered the char-grill 8 oz Ribeye with slow-roasted tomato, garlic & herb sautéed mushrooms, fries & a side of garlic jus. Chris went with the Lasagna, which was slow cooked beef & San Marzano tomato ragu, fresh pasta, aged Parmesan cream, fresh salad & garlic ciabatta. Both were very good and we would recommend Lido Troon.
Day 3: The Toughest Golf Course in Scotland
2nd Round of Golf: Western Gailes Golf Club
The reputation of Western Gailes as one of the game’s finest and more exacting courses has spread worldwide as evidenced by its numerous visitors from around the world including golfing legends from this and the last century. The course is situated between the railway and the sea, so typical of the classic Ayrshire links courses, with both being very much in play for the errant golfer.
This was the hardest course we played. It was also the worst weather day of our four rounds so that didn’t help the scores. However, we really liked the course as it was fair but tough. Western Gailes is closer to the water than Prestwick which allowed for some amazing views and the constant sound of the waves crashing.
A two course meal was included with our round so naturally we stayed for lunch, which was very good. The restaurant was on the corner of the clubhouse overlooking the course so the views were an added bonus.
To top off a great round of golf on an amazing course and a tasty lunch, we had the pleasure or running into and talking to Grant who works at Western Gailes. We must have talked for over an hour about the history of the course, all of the memorabilia in the clubhouse, famous players who have played there in the past, and other golf courses in the area. Click here for a full review of Western Gailes Golf Club.
Dinner: Old Loans Inn Restaurant
We didn’t get back to the hotel until around 5:00 so we decided to eat dinner at the Old Loans Inn Restaurant. Their menu had so many options that we could have eaten there everyday and never repeated a meal. This was the night I mustered up the courage to try Haggis (read the full Old Loans Inn review to find out what I thought). As we were finishing our meal, we met two local residents of Loans whom we sat talking to for hours. Eating meals at the hotel was where we met quite a few people from all over the world in town for either a golf trip or for a relaxing getaway.
Day 4: In the Footsteps of Legends and Unmatched Views
3rd Round of Golf: Turnberry Golf Club - Ailsa Course
Turnberry Ailsa Course is ranked as one of the best in all of Britain and Ireland and among the world’s top dozen courses. Turnberry Ailsa made its reputation at the 1977 British Open when it was the scene of the famous “Duel in the Sun” between Tom Watson and Jack Nicklaus and again in 2009 with an exhilarating duel between Tom Watson and Stewart Cink.
While the golf course was amazing, it was the views that stole the show to the point of paying more attention to the surroundings instead of our actual golf game. Between the views of Ailsa Craig, the Turnberry Lighthouse, and breathtaking golf holes that require shots over cliffs, a round of golf here is hard to beat.
As with a few of the previously mentioned courses, there is quite a bit of history in the clubhouse including a replica of the Claret Jug which is presented to the Champion Golfer of the Year (winner of the Open Championship). Turnberry also had the most well stocked pro shop of the courses we played that week. Click here for a full review of Turnberry Ailsa.
Dinner: Turnberry - The Duel in the Sun Restaurant
Named after the famous 1977 Open battle between Tom Watson and Jack Nicklaus, The Duel in the Sun restaurant is located on the second floor of the clubhouse overlooking the 18th holes of both the Ailsa and Bruce Courses.
For a golf resort, the food prices were very reasonable. Chris went with the ribs and Andrew ordered the fish and chips (figured I had to have it at least once while in Scotland). Both were quite tasty.
This was our last full day on the west coast of Scotland. Tomorrow, we head to Edinburgh for some sightseeing, one more round of golf, and the Open Championship at St. Andrew’s. Click here to read part two of our Scotland Trip Report.